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Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition - 63 Days

Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition

Kanchenjunga is the third-tallest mountain in the world after Mt. Everest and Mt. K2. Kanchenjunga is situated in the eastern part of Nepal at 8598m. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956. It is an enormous mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak.

Three first Westerner to explore Kanchenjunga was the British botanist JD Hooker, who visited the area twice in 1848 and 1849. Exploration of the Skim, side of the peak continued with both British and pundit explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. In that year a party led by Douglas fresh field made a circuit of Kanchenjunga and produced what is still one of the most authoritative maps of the region.

The Japanese now took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1976, 1973 and 1974 during which they climbed Yalung Kang. A German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and in 1977 an Indian army team mounted the second successful expedition to the main peak of Kanchenjunga.

The route (North Face) is definitely the safest, although not the easiest. Climb of Kanchenjunga begin from a charming base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 5,180 m. The first challenge is to fix lines up 900 m of intricately mixed climbing to the North Col. This provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline to and from the North Col you can begin the long process of establishing three camps up the long and complicated North ridge. Using Sherpa support and oxygen, you can move at a systematically slow velocity higher and higher up the mountain. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert climbers.

Day 1
Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 2
Day 2

Meeting with climbing guide and preparation.

Day 3
Day 3

Meeting with climbing guide and preparation.

Day 4
Day 4

Drive from Kathmandu to Phidim(1200 m).

12 hours.

Stay overnight hotel accommodation.

Day 5
Day 5

Drive from Phidim to Khamdani via Dahalgaonby a local jeep (1650 m).

4 hours.

Stay overnight at tea house or camping accommodation.

Day 6
Day 6

Trek from Khamdani to Khebang (1910 m).

5 hours.

Stay overnight at Tea house or camping accommodation.

Day 7
Day 7

Trek from Khebang to Yamphudin (2080 m)

7 hours.

Stay overnight at teahouse or camping accommodation.

Day 8
Day 8

Trek from Yamphudin to Tortong (2995 m)

8 hours.

Stay overnight at Tea house or camping accommodation.

Day 9
Day 9

Trek from Tortong to Cheram(Tseram) (3870 m).

7 hours.

Stay overnight at Teahouse or camping accommodation.

Day 10
Day 10

Trek from Tseram to Ramche call as Ramchaur (4530 m).

5 hours.

Stay overnight at Teahouse or camping accommodation.

Day 11
Day 11

Rest day for acclimatization before reaching Tso Glassier camp.

Day 12
Day 12

Trek from Ramche to glacier camp (5176 m)

6 hours.

Stay overnight at Camping accommodation.

Day 13
Day 13

Trek from Tso glacier camp to Kanchenjunga Advance base camp (5400 m).

6 hours.

Day 14
Day 14 - 53

Kanchenjunga climbing period (8586m) and summit during these days.

Day 15
Day 54

Preparation and clean the camp for return

Day 16
Day 55

Trek from Yalung Base camp to Ramche(4530 m).

7 hours.

Day 17
Day 56

Trek from Ramche to Tortang (2995 m).

8 hours.

Day 18
Day 57

Trek from Tortang to Yamphudin (2080 m).

5 hours.

Stay overnight at teahouse or camping accommodation.

Day 19
Day 58

Trek from Yamphudin to Khebang(1910 m)

5 hours.

Stay overnight at teahouse or camping accommodation.

Day 20
Day 59

Trek from Khebang to Khamdanivia Dahalgaon(1650 m).

6 hours.

Stay overnight at teahouse or camping accommodation.

Day 21
Day 60

Drive from Khamdani to Ilam(3636 m)

7 hours.

Stay overnight at lodge accommodation.

Day 22
Day 61

Drive from Ilam to Kathmandu (1350 m).

10 hours.

Stay overnight at lodge accommodation.

Day 23
Day 62

Shopping, Farewell, celebration dinner in the evening.

Day 24
Day 63

Transfer to the airport for departure

Cost Includes

  • Mt. Kanchenjunga climbing permit.
  • Kanchenjunga Conservation entry fee
  • Trekking Information Management System (TIMS card)
  • Airport pickup and drop service
  • A government-licensed climbing Sherpa Sardar during trekking and climbing period.
  • Necessary porters during the trekking and climbing period.
  • Necessary transport by bus.
  • Government Legend officer
  • All trekking and climbing equipment like kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils.
  • Climbing equipment: rope, ice bars, ice screws, oxygen mask, regulator, Gamow Bags and snow bar.
  • All meals three times a day (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)
  • Accommodation at tea house and tent during the trekking for you and Nepali staff.
  • Daily weather forecast services
  • Emergency Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepali staff.
  • Medical consultation services by HRA clinic during climbing.
  • Satellite phone for communication.

Cost Excludes

  • Emergency Mountain Medical Rescue Insurance (Provided by your insurance company. Please buy it in your country. You cannot buy it in Nepal.)
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
  • Personal expenses
  • Tips
  • Garbage deposit fee (which is refundable after climbing.)

Personal Climbing Equipment List

  • Seat Harness
  • Jumar
  • Helmet
  • Altimeter
  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Ice-screw
  • Gaiters
  • Locked and unlocked carabiner
  • Climbing boots
  • Pocket knife
  • Woollen gloves
  • Gloves(gore-tex fabrics)
  • Woollen hat
  • Woollen socks
  • Windproof jacket
  • Windproof pant
  • Snow bar
  • Snow goggles(UV factor)
  • Sun cream(UV protection)
  • Headlamp
  • Tent
  • Mattresses
  • Rope
  • Rain gear
  • Ice hammer

You can also hire(rent) all the above-mentioned climbing equipment from here in Kathmandu. Our climbing guide will help you go to one of the equipment stores and select the necessary equipment.

Trip Facts

  • Kathmandu
  • Kathmandu
  • Hard
  • 8,586 m
  • Peak Climbing
  • Tea House and Camp
  • Nepal
  • Sep - Nov and Mar - May
  • Kangchenjunga

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