Ama Dablam is a mountain located in eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft) from sea-level, the lower western peak is 6,170 metres (20,243 ft) from sea-level. The translation of Ama Dablam in English is “Mother’s necklace”; a mother (ama) protecting her child(Dablam), the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods. Amadablam expedition is generally shorter than any other expeditions.
The first ascent via the Southwest Ridge on Ama Dablam was on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ). Recently many mountaineers have successfully climbed the mountain, mostly via Southwest Ridge.
In popularity, Ama Dablam is the third-most permitted expedition. Most climbers’ favourite route is via Southwest Ridge. The right time for climbing is in the months of April to May, before the monsoon starts, and from September to October.
Itinerary
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Pickup at Kathmandu International Airport and drop to hotel.
Expedition briefing and preparation day in Kathmandu.
Early morning Kathmandu to Lukla (Lukla airport 2800m) Fly.
30 minutes
Then trek from Lukla to Phakding(2652m.)
4 hrs.
Stay overnight at lodge or camp in Phakding.
Trek from Phakding(2652m.) to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.)
Rest at Namche Bazar.
Trek from Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) to Tyangboche (3850 m.)
Trek from Tyanboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Preparation period for Climbing Ama Dablam. Stay overnight camp.
Base camp (4600 m): Located on a large grassy meadow with a magnificent view.
To yak camp (5400 m): Yak is the means of transportation to carry most of our equipment for this section.
To camp I (5800 m): In this camp you will have first real learning by our climbing sardar and it takes around one and half hours walk above Yak camp.
Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): This is the hardest part mostly consist of rock climbing only so good rock climbing skills will benefit and can do more efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp II: Located on top of the Yellow Tower has fantastic views.
Camp II to Camp III (6300m): This is hardest snowy part consist of steep snow and ice. You will face lot of challenge like a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge.
Camp III: This is only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit. It is cold and exposed windy to this location.
Summit day: Climbing route follows to the right of the huge ice cliff upon steep slope covered with iced most of the time moving toward the center to summit. Nearly the size of tennis court you can move around and take pictures. You can enjoy the panorama view of five world’s highest peaks.
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Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche (3440 m). Stay overnight at lodge.
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.). Stay overnight at lodge or camp
Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m), Stay overnight at lodge.
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Rest day in Kathmandu.
Fly out from Kathmandu.
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