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This trek was officially opened to tourists in
1991, but mountaineering expeditions have long
had access to the area. In 1950 a party led by
HW Tilman trekked from Thonje to Bimtang and
Colonel Jimmy Roberts crossed the Larkya La
looking for an interesting mountain to climb.
Manaslu (8156m.) was attempted by Japanese
expeditions every year from 1952 until 1956,
when the first ascent was made. It thus became
known as a 'Japanese mountain', and much of the
information about the area was available only in
Japanese. The Japanese continued to dominate the
climbing scene on Manaslu until 1971.
A few trekkers, including the peripatetic Hugh
Swift, managed to obtain trekking permits for
the region, but otherwise this trek has always
been the domain of the mountaineering
expedition. The book Honey Hunters of Nepal, by
Eric Valli and Dianne Summers, makes good
background reading for this area.
Though the Larkya La is not a difficult pass,
the trek around Manaslu is harder than most in
Nepal. In many places the walls of the Buri
Gandaki valley are perpendicular, so you cannot
walk along the bottom of the valley. There is a
huge amount of wasted climbing involved during
the first part of the trek as you climb up and
down over ridges or onto shelves to bypass
cliffs. The trail is rough and steep and it
often literally hangs on a bluff high above the
river. The trek is remote and has no rescue
facilities or opportunities to bail out if you
are tired. There is only one facility that might
conceivably be called a trekkers' hotel, and
there are few English signboards between Arughat
and Tilje.
The trek is geographically spectacular and
culturally fascinating. The inhabitants of the
upper Buri Gandaki, a region known as Nupri
('the western mountains'), are direct
descendants of Tibetan immigrants. Their speech,
dress and customs are almost exclusively
Tibetan. There is still continuous trade between
Nupri and Tibet; Chinese cigarettes, for
example, are found more frequently than Nepali
cigarettes. The mountain views in Nupri are
sensational and the crossing of the Larkya La is
one of the most dramatic of any pass in the
Himalaya.
Because much of this trek is in a region of
strong Tibetan influence, most places have
Tibetan names in addition to their better know
Nepali monikers. |