Nepal opened the Kanchenjunga area to trekkers in 1988, though people had trekked in the area in connection with mountaineering expeditions since the turn of the century. Kanchenjunga is a long way from Kathmandu, and the nearest roads and airports are a long way from the mountain. You can trek either to the north or south Kanchenjunga base camp, but it takes luck, determination and a lot of time to visit both sides of the peak. The northern side is particularly remote; it takes almost two weeks of walking to get to the base camp at Pang Pema.

Kanchenjunga is on the border of Nepal and the India state of Sikkim, so a circuit of the mountain is politically impossible. The next best alternative is to visit both the north and south sides of the mountain from the Nepal side; you need to be equipped for a high pass crossing and have a minimum of four weeks to spare. If for any reason you cannot cross the pass, it's a long way around.

It's difficult to cross either the Lapsang La or Mirgin La. Bad weather and snow are often to blame, but more often it is simply a lack of time. Unless you have at least four weeks to spare, and preferably five, you should plan to visit either the north or south base camp, not both. If you can get to Taplejung by either road or air, the trek can be shortened by several days, making it a bit more reasonable.

The lowland portion of this region is culturally intriguing, but there are few good mountain views. The two treks that I have described will probably need to be extended by a few days because of porter problems, weather, or the need for a rest day.

The Kanchenjunga region is the home of the Limbus. Relatives of the Rais, Limbus dominate the region east of the Arun Kosi and few live elsewhere. Limbu men wear a distinctive, tall topi, a Nepali cap that is much more colourful than that worn by other Nepalis.

A noteworthy contribution of Limbu culture is the drink tongba. A wooden pot is filled with fermented millet seeds and boiling water. You sip the dangerously potent mixture through a special bamboo straw, with tiny filters to keep the seeds out of the drink, as the hotelier merrily adds more hot water. It is often served in a large plastic mug, but ethnically correct hotels serve it in a special wooden tongba pot, which has brass rings and a wooden cap with a hole for the straw. Tongba goew down easily, as you might do yourself when you arise after a lengthy tongba session. Watch for this speciality anywhere north of Dharan.