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Mt.
Baruntse Peak is one of the beautiful 7,000m
snow peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. This
mountain lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif
to the west of Makalu. This captivating ridge is
surrounded by some of the most famous peaks of
the world Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama
Dablam and the list continues. Baruntse is the
most accessible 7000-meter peak in the region
besides having a normal route of ascent, which
can be guided.
The
first to make its summit were the already famous
Hillary and Jim McFarland. The ascent route is
through the southern ridge overhanging the
famous West pass; this is an act the traditional
route opened by Hillary and Shipton in 1952. The
regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you
across the Mera Peak trek up to Mera – La and
then Hongu valley, one of the most fertile
regions in Nepal, passing northward through a
beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes
through delightful Sherpa country and provides
for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base
camp is at an altitude of around 5250m. and sits
near the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass.
The route then follows a long ridge leading to
the summit. An ascent on Baruntse is an
adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true
Nepalese 7000 meter.
Normally, we establish two camps above the base
camp in Baruntse climbing. The camp (I) is set
up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m
and the camp (II) is on the South – East Ridge
at a height of 6,420m.
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The four Swedes
Ulla, Ruder
