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Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak
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The
normal route to climb Ama Dablam is from its
South- West ridge. Ama Dablam is a small
snowcapped peak lying in the Everest region.
This South – West ridge is the normal and most
popular route in order to ascend the Mt. Ama
Dablam.
In
addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more
than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart
of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley
of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount
Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of
every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and
super-steep faces guard the summit from all but
the experienced climber. From the summit you are
surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other,
five of the highest six peaks in the world are
clearly visible.
The
first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam
was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong
NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented
French team as late as 1979. In recent years
many parties have successfully climbed the
mountain, with nearly all ascents via the
original SW ridge route.
Ama
Dablam is considered to be the technical &
difficult & challenging peak for all the
mountaineers. This unforgettable climb in the
Khumbu region of Nepal start/end with the Lukla.
It involves a cultural & exciting trek up to the
base camp & also involves technical rock, snow
and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit
views of world’s highest & famous mountains.
Named
"Island Peak" in 1952 due to its striking
resemblance to a island on a sea of ice, this
mountain was renamed "Imje Tse" in the early
80s. Its original name is more often used,
however. First climbed by a team preparing for
an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an
impressive, highly glaciated West Face which
rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the
mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse
Shar and is separated only by a small col.
Above this gap is the ridge leading to summit.
From base camp, we will ascend a steep, grassy
slope and small rocky steps to high camp. It is
necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow
and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes
will be used at this point in an otherwise
non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a
final tricky snow pitch before reaching the
summit. Again, stunning views of the
surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak,
including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama
Dablam and Baruntse.
Facts of the Expedition
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Duration: 30 Days
Trek type: Camping House
Max Altitude:
6856 m.
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Minimum Pax: 1 +
Mode of travel:
Flight
Grade: Strenuous
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Itinerary in Detail
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Day 01 : |
Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to
hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu. |
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Day 02 : |
Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at
hotel in Kathmandu. |
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Day 03 : |
Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes
approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding.
Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding. Early in
the morning you will be driven from hotel to
Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular
flight you will land to Lukla airport
(2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding
(2652m.) and you walk for about 2 and half to 3
hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi
Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding
(2652m.)
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Day 04 : |
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.)
which takes about 5 to 5 and half hours. Stay
overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar. This day
you trek and cross the river on high suspension
bridges. Beyond Monjo(2800m.) is the entrance to
the Sagarmatha National Park which was set-up in
order to protect and preserve this fragile
mountain environment. You then ascend quite
steeply to Namche and along the way, if the
weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt
Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the
view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri,
Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the
village monasteries on the way of trekking to
Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Namche is the main
trading village in the Khumbu region and holds a
busy Saturday market. There is set a meeting
place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands
and the Tibetan yak caravans that have reached
there by crossing the glaciated Nangpa La. |
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Day 05 : |
Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization and
excursion around the places. Stay overnight at
lodge in Namche Bazaar. Namche is tucked away
between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the
Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops
and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent
outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest
day for acclimatization to the high altitude
before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the
acclimatization you walk upto Khunde Hospital
which was set-up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one
hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where
Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for
the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse,
Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There
are also good views from the National Park
Centre and Museum just above the town.
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Day 06 : |
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.)
and it takes almost 5 hours. Stay overnight at
lodge in Tyangboche. From Namche, the trail
contours around the side of the valley, high
above the Dudh Kosi. Now you have a glimpse of
first really good views of the great peaks of
the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse,
Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing
by several villages and numerous tea shops, the
trail descends steeply to a bridge over the
river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The
village has an excellent place for lunch and you
can take a short rest before making the steep
climb to Tyangboche. Although exhausting due to
the zigzag path, the trek has numerous
attractions like rhododendron bushes, beautiful
birds chirping and superb mountain scenery
making your trek exciting. Tyangboche is famous
for its legendary monastery, the largest in the
Khumbu region. |
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Day 07 : |
Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.) which
takes about 4 and half hours to 5 hours. You
gradually descend through a forest, cross the
Imja Khola and climb steadily up to the village
of Pangboche. This is directly opposite to Ama
Dablam [6,856 m], and has exceptional views of
the mountain, with the Gompa, Mani walls and
scattered pine trees in the foreground. As you
gradually ascend, you do find thick forests as
the trail is full of thorny and juniper bushes.
A further two and half hour’s walk brings us to
Dingboche. Here you can see Sherpa people
working hard in the agricultural farm. |
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Day 08 : |
Rest at Dingboche for acclimatization. |
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Day 09 : |
Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung
(4730m.) And it takes about 2 and half hours.
The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung.
On the way, you can see summer huts made
especially for keeping the livestock’s in summer
time. Along this, you enjoy the beautiful
mountain views in and around the valley. |
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Day 10 : |
Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp
(5087m) and it takes about three hours. You trek
through gradual ascent path all the way to Base
Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic
views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak
and many others.
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Day 11 : |
Set the high camp.
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Day 12 : |
Climb the Island peak and back to base camp. |
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Day 13 : |
Trek from Base camp to Pangboche. After
descending along the trail to Chhukung, we
continue on to Dingboche for lunch. It is then
another couple of hours to the lovely village of
Pangboche where we'll camp for the night. |
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Day 14 : |
Rest at Pangboche. |
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Day 15 :
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Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Lunch at Pangboche and continue trek to Base
camp, Sherpa staff will set the base camp &
Expedition members take relax.
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Day 16 - 29 :
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Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Summit to the top.
You have full 17 days to make the summit on the
top of Mt Ama Dablam with support of our
experienced climbing sherpa.
Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large
grassy meadow with a wonderful views.
To yak camp (5400 m): We use yaks to
carry most of our equipment for this section,
which saves us three to fours hours of heavy
work. There is a rough track over very rocky
terrain, which the yaks and we use.
To camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp
is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp.
This section is marked by rock cairns and
involves boulder hopping and some easy
scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of
sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now you are
really climbing. This section of the route is
usually rock climbing only, depending on the
season. The granite is high quality and the
moves fun, challenging and exposed but
“do-able”. You follow a narrow ridge, switching
back and forth on each side of the ridge. This
is the hardest rock climbing of the entire
route. In places the exposure is extreme and you
are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place.
Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the
ropes all the time if you are finding the going
getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the
fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help
you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of
the climbing on this section is traversing on
rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you
move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow
Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is
rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you
dropped your cup from here it would probably
land in base camp!
Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now for the
hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We
follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up
to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge.
Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as
the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here
is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow
mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks
in the background. This feature leads us up onto
a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the
purpose of camp three.
Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the
start of your summit push. The Sherpas will
often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents
down as the natural shape of the mountain can at
times unfortunately funnel the wind to this
location. It is however the only safe flat piece
of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day: The initial route is to the right of
the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately
steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this
feature we move toward the centre of the face.
The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough
hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m).
The summit is the size of a tennis court and
allows us to move around and take pictures. Five
of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly
visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks
filling the gaps. |
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Day 30 :
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Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay
overnight at lodge. |
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Day 31 :
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Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) and
it takes about four hours. Stay overnight at
lodge. The trails descend steeply for early one
and half hours. After that, the path has small
ups and down to Phakding through Monjo. |
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Day 32 :
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Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) and it takes
about three hours. Stay overnight at lodge. Your
final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back
down to Lukla.
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Day 33 :
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Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to
hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu. |
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Day 34 : |
Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel
in Kathmandu.
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Day 35 : |
Fly out from Kathmandu.
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