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Ama Dablam Expedition
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Ama
Dablam is known as one of the most impressive
mountains in the world, not for it's altitude,
but for it's beauty, aesthetics and the pure
exposure encountered high on it's flanks. Most
parties attempt the SW ridge, climbing
expedition style, fixing ropes, ferrying loads,
and acclimatizing slowly.
The
normal route to climb Ama Dablam is from its
South- West ridge. Ama Dablam is a small
snowcapped peak lying in the Everest region.
This South – West ridge is the normal and most
popular route in order to ascend the Mt. Ama
Dablam.
In
addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more
than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart
of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley
of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount
Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of
every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and
super-steep faces guard the summit from all but
the experienced climber. From the summit you are
surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other,
five of the highest six peaks in the world are
clearly visible.
The
first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam
was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong
NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented
French team as late as 1979. In recent years
many parties have successfully climbed the
mountain, with nearly all ascents via the
original SW ridge route.
Facts of the Expedition
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Duration: 30 Days
Trek type: Camping House
Max Altitude:
6856 m.
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Minimum Pax: 1 +
Mode of travel:
Flight
Grade: Strenuous
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Itinerary in Detail
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Day 01 : |
Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and
transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in
Kathmandu. |
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Day 02 : |
Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at
hotel in Kathmandu. |
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Day 03 : |
Fly
from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes
approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding.
Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding. Early in
the morning you will be driven from hotel to
Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular
flight you will land to Lukla airport
(2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding
(2652m.) and you walk for about 2 and half to 3
hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi
Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding
(2652m.)
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Day 04 : |
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.)
which takes about 5 to 5 and half hours. Stay
overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar. This day
you trek and cross the river on high suspension
bridges. Beyond Monjo(2800m.) is the entrance to
the Sagarmatha National Park which was set-up in
order to protect and preserve this fragile
mountain environment. You then ascend quite
steeply to Namche and along the way, if the
weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt
Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the
view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri,
Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the
village monasteries on the way of trekking to
Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Namche is the main
trading village in the Khumbu region and holds a
busy Saturday market. There is set a meeting
place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands
and the Tibetan yak caravans that have reached
there by crossing the glaciated Nangpa La. |
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Day 05 : |
Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization and
excursion around the places. Stay overnight at
lodge in Namche Bazaar. Namche is tucked away
between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the
Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops
and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent
outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest
day for acclimatization to the high altitude
before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the
acclimatization you walk upto Khunde Hospital
which was set-up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one
hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where
Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for
the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse,
Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There
are also good views from the National Park
Centre and Museum just above the town.
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Day 06 : |
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.)
and it takes almost 5 hours. Stay overnight at
lodge in Tyangboche. From Namche, the trail
contours around the side of the valley, high
above the Dudh Kosi. Now you have a glimpse of
first really good views of the great peaks of
the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse,
Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing
by several villages and numerous tea shops, the
trail descends steeply to a bridge over the
river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The
village has an excellent place for lunch and you
can take a short rest before making the steep
climb to Tyangboche. Although exhausting due to
the zigzag path, the trek has numerous
attractions like rhododendron bushes, beautiful
birds chirping and superb mountain scenery
making your trek exciting. Tyangboche is famous
for its legendary monastery, the largest in the
Khumbu region. |
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Day 07 : |
Trek from Tyanboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
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Day 08 : 24 |
Climbing period for Ama Dablam. Stay overnight
at camp.
Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large
grassy meadow with a wonderful views.
To yak camp (5400 m): We use yaks to
carry most of our equipment for this section,
which saves us three to fours hours of heavy
work. There is a rough track over very rocky
terrain, which the yaks and we use.
To camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp
is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp.
This section is marked by rock cairns and
involves boulder hopping and some easy
scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of
sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now you are
really climbing. This section of the route is
usually rock climbing only, depending on the
season. The granite is high quality and the
moves fun, challenging and exposed but
“do-able”. You follow a narrow ridge, switching
back and forth on each side of the ridge. This
is the hardest rock climbing of the entire
route. In places the exposure is extreme and you
are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place.
Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the
ropes all the time if you are finding the going
getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the
fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help
you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of
the climbing on this section is traversing on
rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you
move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow
Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is
rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you
dropped your cup from here it would probably
land in base camp!
Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now for the
hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We
follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up
to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge.
Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as
the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here
is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow
mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks
in the background. This feature leads us up onto
a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the
purpose of camp three.
Camp III: A cold and exposed position is
the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will
often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents
down as the natural shape of the mountain can at
times unfortunately funnel the wind to this
location. It is however the only safe flat piece
of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day: The initial route is to the
right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a
moderately steep slope, which is often iced.
Once past this feature we move toward the centre
of the face. The angle eases slightly and a
couple of tough hours later we emerge on the
summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a
tennis court and allows us to move around and
take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest
peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m
and lesser peaks filling the gaps. |
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Day 25 : |
Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay
overnight at lodge. |
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Day 26 : |
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) and
it takes about four hours. Stay overnight at
lodge. The trails descend steeply for early one
and half hours. After that, the path has small
ups and down to Phakding through Monjo. |
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Day 27 : |
Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) and it takes
about three hours. Stay overnight at lodge. Your
final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back
down to Lukla.
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Day 28 : |
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to
hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu. |
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Day 29 : |
Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel
in Kathmandu.
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Day 30 : |
Fly out from Kathmandu.
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The four Swedes
Ulla, Ruder
Olle Ruder
Eva Ruder
Jan Thoren
Malarvagen 49165 72
HASSELBY Sweden,
08-38-50-45.
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